The Ten4 story

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 Frequently Asked Question 

 This conversion will ONLY fit a buggy, and will work best with a tub chassis. The rere tubs starting in 2013 are pretty flexible so we recommend our chassis brace. The kit requires a stealth transmission as well. If you have a 6 gear, it needs to be swapped. Short front arms pair with our short CVD’s, standard CE/Team/Worlds arms use the standard CVD’s. If you are using the short .56 shocks up front from an early RC10 make sure you get a .56 front shock tower. If you will be using big bore or .89/1.18 shocks choose the big bore towers. If you are using a .71 shock the rest of the towers will fit. The noseplate on Worlds cars and made by other companies is cut and has a V shape. If using that noseplate you will want to purchase the drilling template. We highly recommend trying to find a standard noseplate as it will be much easier.  

The best wheel offset would be the vintage Kyosho which they still use on their RERE kits like the Optima Mid. You would need the 12mm rear wheel adapters for those in the rear. You can also use JC Racing wheels. Modern 4wd offset wheels will fit but will make the front end narrow just like modern wheels do at the rear. They are not recommended. I actually like the Amazon wheels in the parts list, they are insanely cheap and fit great- plus they come with tires that look great on the shelf. 

The RC10 was made for a 6 cell battery. Long before LIPO packs. The rear bulkhead doesn’t like LIPOs. You will need to cut the bottom out of it like the RERE kits and it will be hard to get the pack in and out. I recommend a shorty pack. They allow you to move the weight forward and are much easier to install. They also pair really well with our chassis brace. Nothing wrong with a 6 cell either but remember modern cells are larger in diameter so they also are not a perfect fit in the bulkhead. 

Because the servo is turned sideways like a modern buggy, a shorty servo is recommended but not absolutely necessary. It will leave you more room, which will help with the servo linkage. We do not use a servo saver, so a metal gear high torque servo is a good idea. 

 Again, the RC10 was built long before LIPO and brushless. The stealth trans has proven itself to handle brushless power pretty well, but the more power you throw at it the more the belt will wear and skip and the more you will be rebuilding the diffs. The more power you add the more important the chassis stiffener is as well. To experience the buggy as it would have been back in the day something like a 12t-14t mod motor would be my choice. If we were building a car to compete with modern 4wds we wouldn’t be starting with a car from 1984. Running on a high traction track like carpet is going to also be very hard on the belt and diffs with a lot of power. Brushless motors have instant torque. Personally, I’d keep the brushless for dirt (if at all). The MIP conversion at the end of its run offered a slipper for the front. You may prefer to run the front diff just a little looser than usual to allow a bit of slip. I like to use the old AE diff lube (not the stealth lube) to allow a little slip.  

No change in the body requirements, any body that fits a stock RC10 should fit the conversion. The front area around the shock tower should fit nicely inside any buggy body I can think of with minimal cutting. The belt and pulley do not stick up very far. 

This is a tricky one. It will depend on where you are running, how much power you are putting down, and the chassis type. The more power and more flexible the chassis, the tighter you will need to run it. Start with it on the loose side, and if you hear skipping gradually tighten it. If you run out of room on the tensioner, add washers between the nose tube and noseplate at the very front of the car. One thin washer on each side makes a big change in tension. This is also how MIP adjusted theirs. 

The inner hole is used up by the tower as it is more important, IMO, to have a secure shock tower. The middle hole, often called the Worlds hole, was the preference at the end of the RC10 series and it’s the hole we would recommend using for the camber link. Of course if you have an early RC10 you will be using the outer hole and you don’t need to worry about this. If using the inner hole is important to you, you can remove the shock tower screw and then use the hole. The tower wont be supported there anymore, but that is how MIP did it on theirs and it works.  

You don’t! In fact you waited too long and CANT get one! But we are keeping this page active for reference. This is a modern look at the old MIP conversion that really didn’t work all that well and was fragile. There have been posts after posts about MIP rereleasing theirs and back in 2013 we decided to do something about it by releasing our own modern version- the Ten4. Over the years the parts for those dried up (B44 parts especially) so the Ten4.1 is our modern-er take on the conversion. The MIP kits never really won races, they didn’t handle as good as a purpose built 4wd, they were less durable, and they were not efficient. That said, we love them and want to make them better. We think you will find the Ten4.1 fills the void that has been there for so many years.